2004 Ford F250 Ignition Switch Wiring Diagram

Hey everybody, I know that this is an old thread, but instead of starting a new thread (and most likely be called a noob and told to use the search function, as that's what they do at FullsizeBronco), I figured I'd revive this one.

First off, I'm a noob when it comes to electrical engineering. I get the general idea, and can wire something small and simple that doesn't do much, but engine wiring is beyond my knowledge, for now.

Second, I know this is an F150 forum, but I drive an 89 Bronco with a 5.0L EFI and AOD.
My ignition actuating rod likes to bend every month or so. Adding to that, another problem just recently appeared and I'm just tired of dealing with the ignition system on the column. I need something I know I can rely on to start, hence why I'm here, reviving this dusty old thread.

Now, down to business.

The wiring diagrams I have are in the Haynes manual 2004 edition: engine wiring - page 12-31, and chassis wiring - page 12-49.
[A note on the wire colors, in the diagrams in my book, there is no light or dark gray, only gray.]

Here's my idea how to set it up:

1 toggle/slide switch for security purposes. Will be hidden somewhere inside the cab. Most likely a slide switch since they're less conspicuous. It will disconnect all power to the ignition system from the 2 yellow lines.
1 toggle switch for main power to all other switchs.
1 toggle switch for engine function
1 toggle switch for accessories: windows, wipers & fluid pump, radio
1 momentary on push button

Here's what I know so far from this thread, my Haynes manual, and other sources:

The yellow wires are from the battery via the starter relay.
The red w/ light blue (start) wire connects to the small post on the starter relay.
The wiring diagram on page 12-31 shows that the red w/ light green (ignition) wire connects to the EEC power relay which connects to the EEC.
The wiring diagram on page 12-49 (top right diagram) shows that the red w/ light green (ignition) wire also runs to the charge indicator in the instrument cluster during startup.
To answer 3pedaltrucks' question: the grey w/ pink ("Ignition-bypass") wire is ONLY hot when the key is pushed to the start position, connecting to the yellow (battery) wires and the red w/ light blue (start) wire. I found this out by testing the connectors of the ignition switch in every position with a multimeter.
The wiring diagram on page 12-49 (bottom right diagram) shows that the black w/ green (accessory) wire connects to the windshield wiper and fluid pump. (Stereo?)
The purple w/ white (proof/prove-out) wire is for the prove-out some dash lights do, and grounds to the ignition switch body when in the start position. Steve83, my Haynes manual doesn't have the diagram you specified.
The wiring diagram on page 12-31 shows the grey w/yellow (accessory) wire running from the ignition switch to the heated exhaust gas oxygen sensor.

The questions I have:

Does anyone know how many amps would be running through the yellow (battery) wires to the start (red w/light blue) wire? Or know what IS in fact safe to use; 10A, 20A, 30A?
This will tell me what push buttons I can use based on what it's rated for, and also what gauge wire to use.
Is having the red w/ light green (ignition) wire connected to it's own toggle switch a safe way to shut the vehicle off? Just turn the toggle to the off position to turn the vehicle off? I'm assuming that's how the ignition switch controls the engine shutdown in normal use?
What should be done with the purple /w white (proof) wire?
Once I do have everything wired correctly to safely start and stop the engine, would removing the lock cylinder, actuator, and actuator rod keep the steering column unlocked, allowing me to have a keyless setup?

That's all I can think of for now. If I have any more questions, I'll be sure to ask.

Thanks in advance guys.